Tone Caps Follow-up
I’ve received a lot of questions and comments about my tone cap videos part 1 and part 2.
In this video (split into two parts due to YouTube length limits), I answer some of those questions, and record some more examples. I talk about 50’s versus modern wiring, my recording setup and how the audio is processed, and how to do double-blind testing. I measure the cap values, and record another set of examples, now including ceramic caps and distorted examples.
Correction: in the video at 3:34, I misspoke- the cutoff frequency doesn’t actually change. Just the amount of signal passed through the cap. On 10, very little signal passes through the cap to ground.
bfv102290
April 13, 2010 @ 1:36 pm
This quality is horrible.
bfv102290
April 13, 2010 @ 1:42 pm
I didn’t see anything saying the video is still processing. And there’s no
thing to change the resolution to 480i.
bfv102290
April 13, 2010 @ 5:08 pm
now it’s available in 720p HD
DrZazzoo
April 13, 2010 @ 8:44 pm
hey john, i just want to say that your videos have truly been a great
resource for me. i recently replaced the electronics in an old 80s MIJ
strat of mine. your videos were such a huge help. nothing else i found (and
i searched quite a bit) was nearly as helpful. thank you.
incantatis
April 14, 2010 @ 1:11 am
Superb vids! 2 thumbs up! You are doing invaluable job!
Like tone? In depth capacitor comparison: - My Les Paul Forums
April 13, 2010 @ 10:24 pm
[…] capacitor comparison: John has posted a follow up, now including examples with distortion. Tone Caps Follow-up lanet z __________________ my wunnerful melody maker (dual pickup, […]
Like tone? In depth capacitor comparison: - My Les Paul Forums
April 14, 2010 @ 2:28 am
[…] capacitor comparison: John has posted a follow up, now including examples with distortion. Tone Caps Follow-up planet z __________________ my wunnerful melody maker (dual pickup, […]
John
April 14, 2010 @ 2:20 pm
@back2thefutre – the cap voltage rating tells you how much voltage the cap
can handle before the dialectric breaks down. the voltage of the guitar
signal is tiny (probably milliivolts), and these caps have pretty high
ratings (sometimes in the hundreds of volts), so it’s not something to
really worry about.
John
April 14, 2010 @ 2:27 pm
@Razevok – it’s a fair criticism. i was trying to keep each playing example
relatively short so you can easily A/B them. but it would be useful to hear
the entire range of the guitar played at several different resistance
values, at several different picking intensities, for every cap. it would
be a huge effort though, and hard to compare them. in any case, i’ll leave
that as an optional exercise for the truly obsessed 🙂
jack
April 14, 2010 @ 6:30 am
Thanks again john. Your four parts on this topic are the most definitive investigation of capacitor and tone, ever known to mankind. You should get a webby award or something.
MrAndcruz
April 14, 2010 @ 7:48 pm
hey john, great 3rd vid…. is that a fender studio 85 amp??? cheers
John
April 14, 2010 @ 10:14 pm
@MrAndcruz – It’s a Fender Stage 185
Is Tone Love Blind? :planet z
April 15, 2010 @ 8:49 pm
[…] are the recordings lifted from my most recent Tone Cap Comparison Video, split into individual files. The files are named using generic numbers, rather than labeling […]
lidesnowi
April 16, 2010 @ 10:42 pm
Cool demo John! Why not do a varitone demo with different inductors and
caps!? That would be interesting!
Alan
April 18, 2010 @ 11:36 am
I am skeptical, and didn’t expect to hear differences, but I could detect some between caps once I did some intense A/Bing.
I did a blind “tournament” bracket listening test (1v2, 3v4, etc and then compared the winners) with both clean melody and rhythm clips. I found I preferred 1, 4, and 6 for both tests in the first round, and 1 and 6 both times in the second round (not really liking 7 or 8 much out of the bunch). 1 and 6 are the Orange Drop (which is what I already use in most of my guitars, so maybe familiarity comes into play) and 6 is the NTE ceramic (I’m a cheap date, I guess).
BUT I then compared the “measured” capacitances, and in every first round comparison I tended to prefer the one with the lowest measured capacitance! So this doesn’t tell me that I can necessarily detect differences in the cap material, but that I tend to prefer the lower value caps.
Great job! There is more “magic mojo” being spewed around the net over tone caps than anything else!
John
April 18, 2010 @ 7:56 pm
Hey Alan,
Great to hear your results. If it’s not already obvious, I too am inherently skeptical about this stuff- and that’s one of the reasons I undertook this whole project.
Interesting about your preferences matching the lower capacitance measurements. I still really think they can’t be accounting for the total difference in sound character – since in some of the cases I really hear differences in lower parts of the frequency spectrum (lower than the cutoff freq).
To really take it to the next level, I should have carefully tuned each cap test to have the same cutoff frequency. I had considered doing this at first, but it was too much trouble.
So much to do, so little time 🙂
Thanks again for the feedback,
John
Graham Case
April 20, 2010 @ 12:41 pm
Does anyone know where I might be able to get on of the vintage yellow
cylinder caps? John found it in a drawer at his dad’s house. But I really
liked that one.
erikmilan1987
May 10, 2010 @ 10:30 am
Hey john remember my sugestion about doing a Greasebucket tone control for
your next proyect, no one ever on youtube have done that and its really
easy if you just see a fender highway one wiring diagram. If you need any
support on doing this dont worry to ask me.
Jim
May 17, 2010 @ 1:05 pm
Great video on tone and caps. Even better is your P93 and VOX, I happen to have one of each also or close. I bought a P93 just like yours at Christmas and a VOX ADVT50. I changed the metal grill and replaced with a diamond cloth. Here’s a link to the AMP (http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs516.snc3/27103_1407191228565_1495973327_1069641_1844064_n.jpg)and also a post I did on doing it (http://music-electronics-forum.com/t7261-post140856/#post140856)
Jim
John
May 17, 2010 @ 1:26 pm
Hey Jim,
Sweet mod on the amp- looks great!
-John
Jim
May 17, 2010 @ 2:21 pm
Thanks
May be you can help me with another thing, a wiring thing. I am going to take some pics and send a link in 30 minutes or so and when you get a chance take a look.
Jim
Jim
May 17, 2010 @ 3:57 pm
John
If you have an idea where the yellow wire goes and if the output jack wires are right?
Here the story or setup, this is a Saga ST 10 Kit (Strat Copy) I bought to play with and try finishing and whatever. I put it together and then took apart to do a finish on body. I cut the wires from the output jack and the ground wire. The yellow ground is the wire I forget where it was, the black and white I think are right but could be wrong. I put it all back like I thought it was but no sound. Any ideas?
Here is a picture of the controls and wiring.
Yellow wire is ground coming from claw hook for tremolo springs in back of body (forget where it was soldiered when I got this kit)
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs324.ash1/28364_1449036114661_1495973327_1158937_927337_s.jpg
Here is the output jack.
Black wire comes from output jack and is really 2 wires a white with a ground wire shield around it, if you look where it goes into body there are 2 wires, a black and a white (looks blue from finish paint) The black is center of output jack and white is outside of output jack, see next picture.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs324.ash1/28364_1449035674650_1495973327_1158932_4424293_s.jpg
Here is where the output jack wires are now.
The controls as they sit in first picture, right next to pickup is volume and the black wire from output jack is soldiered to volume pot shell, white wire is soldiered to the center terminal. The next 2 controls are tone pots.
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs324.ash1/28364_1449035914656_1495973327_1158935_7875592_s.jpg
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs294.snc3/28364_1449035874655_1495973327_1158934_4815786_s.jpg
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs324.ash1/28364_1449035914656_1495973327_1158935_7875592_s.jpg
If you get a chance, Thanks
Jim
Jim
May 17, 2010 @ 7:10 pm
Hey I fixed it, thanks and I have you booked marked, there is some good stuff on here. I need to go back over your P 93 pickup change out. I might have some ?? I like the P 93 as is but I may want to do a swap at some point.
John
May 17, 2010 @ 9:36 pm
Hey Jim,
Glad I could help– haha! 🙂
Enjoy the guitar!
-John
Jim
May 18, 2010 @ 6:28 pm
John
No problem, I got it done and learned about the wiring. I don’t know if you are familar with this guy, Deaf Eddie, does Beatle’s Tribute band and all kinds of other stuff. He hasan aswome guitar collection.
http://www.deaf-eddie.net/
He gave me some clues as what to look for to fix it. Hey again I will be looking at your P93 posts.
Jim
Jacob Stewart
June 21, 2010 @ 12:56 pm
I dont know anything about caps haha. But I need a little help. I have a
Gibson Explorer which is two volumes and master tone. Would that be 50’s
wiring? And for a more vintage tone, what would you think of Sprague
Vitamin Qs? Does anybody know what material that is so I can get an idea of
what it sounds like with the first video? Thanks ahead of time!
jacobtheguitarfreak
June 22, 2010 @ 5:18 pm
Do you happen to know what Sprague Bumblebee are? I’m not talking about the originals, I mean the kind you can get off of like AllParts.com for $60 or so. I’m not sure if there’s a difference of not between the two
jacobtheguitarfreak
June 22, 2010 @ 8:16 pm
@johnplanetz Alright thanks man, I think I’m gonna order myself some Vitamin Qs if I can find some.
alexbriss
June 25, 2010 @ 3:54 am
These movies rock!
Theo Chou
October 12, 2010 @ 5:49 pm
real tone comes from fingers
Theo Chou
October 12, 2010 @ 5:50 pm
real tone comes from fingers, but great video series nonetheless! There’s
definitely a difference between the ceramic and the others
John
October 27, 2010 @ 10:56 am
@johnplanetz – I finally identified those yellow caps! They are Type WMF
1S22 Polyester Film capacitor with a 100v rating, from CDE Cornell
Dubilier. You should be able to find some on ebay, etc.
Peteyuse
November 3, 2010 @ 5:43 pm
Interesting. Well done on the test.
IMO: No variations that couldn’t be made much more markedly at another point in the signal chain (amp tonestack etc.) or picking technique. The differences are effectively inaudible in practical terms. I suppose it should be considered, that many of the legendary guitar performances were done through mylar and ceramic disk.
I guess we all need to think we have an edge. Even if we’d need to tell everyone to be quiet and concentrate whilst we pointed it out.
acrock21
November 30, 2010 @ 7:13 pm
cant the type of wire effect the sound aswell ?
leftaroundabout
December 12, 2010 @ 4:20 am
3:33
“in the case where we had the tone pot all the way up, the cutoff frequency was pretty high…”
Well that’s not quite correct. The tone pot doesn’t actually do much about the cutoff frq of the tone circuit at all (which is mainly determined by the PU inductance and the cap), it rather determines how much this cutoff will influence the output signal. So it’s natural that changes in the capacitance will mainly influence the midrange rather than treble, even at high tone pot settings.
John
December 15, 2010 @ 9:29 am
@leftaroundabout – true, thanks for pointing that out. it would have more clear to say “very little of the signal is bleeding through the cap to ground”.
leftaroundabout
December 15, 2010 @ 10:07 am
@johnplanetz Exactly, that’s a nice illustrative way of describing it.
ekjade
January 19, 2011 @ 10:15 pm
Very Interesting Videos, great work !
Difficult Decisions - Planet Z
February 3, 2011 @ 6:21 pm
[…] And some people can’t hear a difference at all. Just take a look at the comments on some of my capacitor material type comparison videos and you’ll see what I […]
justmejammin
February 26, 2011 @ 1:43 am
Great series on the subject. Thank you for taking the time to produce them.
From what I can hear I’d have to say my pref’s are for the Orange Cap and
the Russian.
skunkproductionsMLA
March 22, 2011 @ 7:36 pm
The woodiest sounding was the Russian Paper In Oil cap. But the Yellow cylinder had the most open tone across the whole frequency range.
Crazy Tone Thing - Planet Z
March 27, 2011 @ 7:22 pm
[…] See part 3 for a bunch of followup Q&A and some more audio examples. […]
sprintertwo
May 30, 2011 @ 10:02 pm
I think these may be the best videos of this type on the tube. Most (not all!) demo’s and shootouts are so lame and poorly done, they end up causing even more confusion. Too many demo’s are just product ads and biased. We really need more like this. I hope you’re having fun with this and getting enough encouragement to continue.
PS I’d love to see a good pickup series, but I imagine that would be expensive to do unless you could get manufacturers to loan product.
John
May 30, 2011 @ 10:06 pm
@sprintertwo – thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it! You’re right that it would be difficult to arrange a comprehensive pickup comparison. However, I am planning a pickup *magnet* comparison 🙂 These P-90 pickups from Vintage Vibe Guitars allow you to easily swap magnets, and I have a complete set of AlNiCo II, III and V as well as ceramic magnets. It’s on my list to do in the next few months, so stay tuned…
BrianQ823
July 3, 2012 @ 7:55 am
Hey John,
I would be glad to send you a couple of my custom wound P-90’s for testing if you’d like. I usually use the Alnico 2 for bridge pups and Alnico 5 for the neck pups. Most of the bridge pups I’ve done have been overwound for a hotter pup and the neck pups at about 10,000 – 10,100 winds. Then I wax pot them in my “secret” formula (not really secret though, 20% bee’s wax and 80% parafin). Get me an address to send them and I’d “donate them to the cause”. Thanks for the great videos and keep it up!
John
July 3, 2012 @ 8:26 am
Sweet! My VVG P-90’s are wound 8,500 on the neck and middle, and 9,500 on the bridge. (Middle is RWRP). And I’ve always wished they were a bit hotter, so your pickups will be interesting to hear!
I’ll send you an email.
-John
paulyscrate1
June 1, 2011 @ 9:54 am
wow great video topic!
baskethilt
June 25, 2011 @ 10:28 am
Thanks for yr vids. I see yr caps in both 50s and modern are wired from the tonepots middle ear to its top/ground. But in my LPs I see the cap wired where yr yellow line is… i.e. what I thinks is 50s (assuming guitar lies upside down with neck to left) goes from volpot middle ear to tonepots furthest down ear, from the viewers perspective. And another LP which I think has 60s/modern, from volpots furthest down to tonepots middle. To my ignorance, this looks like 4 diff ways, could u explaine?
John
July 1, 2011 @ 9:28 pm
@baskethilt – generally in a series circuit with a cap and a resistor, it makes no difference whether the cap or the resistor comes first. So i think what you’re seeing are just variations on series circuit order. e.g. your first example, placing the cap at the yellow wire simply places the cap before the resistor (pot), instead of resistor before cap.
baskethilt
July 4, 2011 @ 2:57 am
@johnplanetz Ok, thanks… then you could say its a matter of using the least messy soldering method, using your drawings.
hurly000
July 12, 2011 @ 12:57 pm
Awesome. You do us audio nerds proud 😉
John
July 25, 2011 @ 6:05 pm
@hurly000 – 🙂
epiclife247
July 14, 2011 @ 6:35 pm
Who filmed that camera
John
July 25, 2011 @ 6:05 pm
@epiclife247 – i used a canon hf200 on a tripod, and started/stopped the video using the wireless remote control.
THIRSTYGUMS
July 19, 2011 @ 4:07 pm
INTERESTING, great job mate
sydfloydpink
August 6, 2011 @ 9:17 pm
HAVE YOU TRIED USING POLARIZED CAPS?
John
August 9, 2011 @ 4:25 pm
@sydfloydpink – no. polarized caps are generally used for much larger capacitance values than are typically used in guitar tone circuits. Small value caps such as these are typically non-polarized.
00hazel001
August 7, 2011 @ 11:47 am
could you please explain the pros and cons for 50’s and modern wiring?
i’m doing some mods to a telecaster and am not sure how i want to wire it.
i’m using rail pickups, so both are humbucking.
i was going to get a 250k push pull alpha audio pot, with a 500k alpha linear pot, and was thinking of a orange drop cap in the .033uf range.
would you recommend this, and how would 50’s wiring change the tone?
John
August 9, 2011 @ 4:33 pm
@00hazel001 – 50s wiring results in more interaction between tone and volume knobs. If you leave your tone on 10 all the time, the 50s wiring will result in a brighter sound as you roll back on volume. But with tone lowered, the volume knob may actually sound duller than modern wiring when rolling off volume. Do your initial wiring with alligator clips so it’ll be easy for you to try both ways, then pick the one you like. Good luck.
wseeback
September 6, 2011 @ 4:31 pm
Excellent. You’re really taking the scientific approach and responding to peoples suggestions, without being pretentious. You really take this stuff seriously, which makes me take you seriously. Keep on keeping on!
wseeback
September 6, 2011 @ 4:37 pm
Damn! The ceramic sounded a little harsh I thought. Thats what I used. The russian paper in oil had a nice compression in all frequencies to it. Thanks for the vid! BTW, which one did YOU end up choosing?
John
September 8, 2011 @ 11:07 am
@wseeback – i used the orange drop .01. but i also like the PIO.
Herfinnur
September 13, 2011 @ 2:44 am
You don’t have to go through all that extra work to make blind tests. There’s an ancient, well-proven way of blind testing sound: you close your eyes and listen :p
diapersmith
September 19, 2011 @ 10:36 am
All of these videos have been VERY helpful to me. This is the most comprehensive audio study on capacitors & tone that I’ve found. Thank you for being so thorough, both in your demonstration and in your explainations. You’ve helped this layman understand much!
wedel219
September 20, 2011 @ 8:56 pm
Did you show, in any of your previous videos, how you made that cardboard control panel? Did you just desolder all the components, remove them from the guitar and then alligator clip those test leads to your pickup hot wires and the cardboard control’s pots’ terminals? How did you ground your external controls? I have a Heritage H-535 and, thank God, I’m happy with it; messing with the electronics in a semi-hollow with no control panel would be a nightmare. Great videos. Thanks!
John
September 25, 2011 @ 8:56 pm
@wedel219 – Yes, working with semi-hollows is a challenge! For the carddboard setup, I essentially did as you described (and ensured that the external controls were grounded by running alligator leads between the pickup ground and bridge over to the jack on the cardboard. I show the cardboard prep in the first video of my rewiring series: “Wiring Up Guitar Electronics 1: Component Layout, Selecting Wire, Stripping and Tinning”. Hope this helps!
SixStringHarmonies
October 2, 2011 @ 12:05 pm
This was an absolutely amazing and informative series!! Unlike anything anyone else has done on the web to my knowledge…
Thank you so much for putting in the vast time and effort this experiment certainly entailed. Rest assured, there are many thousands of us who very much appreciate a high quality test from a knowledgeable “tone scientist” such as yourself….Bravo!!! Looking forward to future experiments…..
SixStringHarmonies
October 2, 2011 @ 12:05 pm
Subscribed!!
sydfloydpink
October 10, 2011 @ 2:17 pm
i have just tried using polarized caps for tone cap and it works just as good if not better try it and see !!
rabbitspliff
November 2, 2011 @ 1:14 pm
Haha, after seeing sydfloydpink’s comments on polarized caps, I looked them up to see if they could possibly be used to solve the treble bleed problem. Then I read this:
“Explodes quite violently when… a polarized version is subjected to reverse voltage.”
Well… there goes that idea.
rabbitspliff
November 2, 2011 @ 1:16 pm
The below was for Tantalum caps, which as far as I’ve read would be the only ones you can get with a low enough capacitance for use in guitars anyway.
fingerboy18
December 27, 2011 @ 9:49 pm
You should be an engineer. I’m an electrical engineer and you display a wonderful approach to your tests and methods.
6stringzstrummin
January 12, 2012 @ 9:31 am
u r one smart dude!!! thanks again for all this info. incredibly usefull and easy to understand… even for a straight “D” student like myself…hahaha.
EthanWiner
February 9, 2012 @ 9:44 am
Did you actually measure the caps you tried? Many cap types can vary by 50 percent or more from their stated value, and that alone will account for any perceived differences in tone.
John
February 9, 2012 @ 9:52 am
@EthanWiner – yes, see part 3 of this video followup Q&A
EthanWiner
February 9, 2012 @ 10:07 am
@johnplanetz Excellent. However, I don’t think this shows what you think. It’s impossible to play exactly the same twice, and that too will change the sound more than what material the capacitors are made from. A better way to test for sound differences between caps is to use a consistent test signal such as a sine wave, then show an FFT. Ceramic caps do have higher distortion than Mylar and styrene, but the amount of distortion is still much less than that of a typical guitar amp.
John
February 9, 2012 @ 10:20 am
@EthanWiner – True. Often my videos are intended to demonstrate that some changes make big differences, while other changes are so subtle as to be not worth the effort. This as an ongoing theme of my work- as you’ll see in my other videos and my blog. I think it’s clear that your pedals, amp, playing style and how much you’ve had to drink have a far larger impact on your sound than your tone cap 🙂 Nevertheless, there are subtle differences, and those can be interesting to experiment with.
EthanWiner
February 9, 2012 @ 10:47 am
@johnplanetz Yes, especially how much you have to drink! :->) And I applaud your emphasis on blind testing. Proper test methods is a big part of my upcoming book The Audio Expert from Focal Press.
John
February 9, 2012 @ 10:50 am
@EthanWiner – cool! I’ll look forward to seeing your book!
bongocorral
March 27, 2012 @ 4:55 pm
I watched all 4 vids, it’s hard to be super-scientific at home, so I’d say you did a good job overall really and at at the very least explaining the hows and whys, as you said it’s all up to the ear.
But since we weren’t in that room to hear it at the best quality possible. What conclusions did you come to? What caps are in your guitar? value and type?
did you change anything or were you unmoved by your trials?
Thanks for taking the time, I’m working on my G&L and this was right on topic.
John
April 5, 2012 @ 5:32 pm
Glad you’re getting your G&L sorted. My G&L ASAT III has a cheap “greenie” poly-film tone cap .022uF, and a ceramic 200pf treble cap on the master volume, and it sounds fantastic.
For my Epiphone, you can see/hear my results and conclusions in my video “Epiphone Electronics Overhaul, Before and After Comparisons”.
hermannmaier0
February 18, 2012 @ 6:04 am
thank you so much for all this info.
thebighat99
February 21, 2012 @ 6:08 pm
My ears must be bad I really didn’t here much difference from one or the other. It seem to me your just changing the range of the tone from one point lower or higher. With variable values of the caps thats all it might be in the difference in the sound. I will try listening with my eyes closed. But it was really cool you did a lot of work on this. Nice Job 🙂
stringmanipulator
February 26, 2012 @ 3:58 am
Thank you very much for this fantastic series! This is one of the best postings I’ve ever seen, and I learned so much from it, very professional with the graphical EQ and short and clear samples. I can’t thank you enough for this! I subscribed to your channel and will spend a lots of time exploring it. You have a good one //Ken1
diegomeirelles2011
February 28, 2012 @ 9:45 am
The russian paper cap is the best with distortion but very weak with clean sound
In the Soviet Union, the right capacitor finds you.
Floridaboy7777
March 14, 2012 @ 10:52 am
Could you please tell me if you have heard a difference between the Russian K40Y and the Russian K42Y Capacitors? Some people say they are identical, some say there is no comparison. if so, which do you like best? and where do you get the caps? Man this video has me pumped 🙂
Bill
March 14, 2012 @ 9:27 pm
http://shop.axegrinderz.com/ has the Russian capacitors you are looking for.
John
March 14, 2012 @ 10:04 pm
Thanks for the link! I hadn’t seen axegrinderz before- looks like a great resource.
-John
rigidarm1
March 17, 2012 @ 4:12 pm
I like the Vintage Yellow .022’s.
purplepineapple117
March 25, 2012 @ 11:14 am
Ceramic, sounds the best to me.
badmuddy
March 26, 2012 @ 9:54 am
oddly enough, for that guitar, the mallory (2nd fave) & the trop fish (my fave) sounded best. the argument for the trop being a diff value is negated by the fact that i’m hearing the exact opposite response you’d expect, i.e., the top end is both more prevalent, & has more clarity, rather than it being generally darker than the rest. & the ceramic sounds as krappy as the original, stock epi cap. the russian pio sound a bit muffled & a lot less distinct than my 2 faves….
Frank
June 2, 2012 @ 12:48 am
Hi!
Did you measure those caps.
That is, sometimes there are quite noticeable differences of the REAL values of two 0.022 mfd caps.
John
June 4, 2012 @ 3:22 pm
Yes, I show all the cap measurements a few minutes into Part 3.
John
johnrussom
June 14, 2012 @ 10:28 am
(1 of 2) You are a really good communicator and teacher, my friend. I wish you owned a Stratocaster. I would love your perspective on the same process with a fender. I do not have the tools nor education to do it myself. (But I am learning!)
johnrussom
June 14, 2012 @ 10:48 am
(2 of 2) I will send you a P.M. My question is too confusing and that is a flame war waiting to happen. Thanks again for helping out those of us that are trying to find facts.
showerstm1
July 8, 2012 @ 7:43 am
what song are you playing for the distorted example?
John
July 8, 2012 @ 5:13 pm
It’s not exact, but based on Lenny Kravitz- Are You Gonna Go My Way.
ThomasBCullen
July 13, 2012 @ 4:36 pm
vintage yellow cylinder with distortion FTW
robb4545
July 17, 2012 @ 1:59 pm
I also use Pete Biltoft pickups. They are awesome to say the least. Hard to distinguish between caps. The ceramic sounds as good as the others. Glad to see someone else playing with Vintage Vibe pickups.
jmattbassplaya90
August 8, 2012 @ 8:35 pm
Thank you so much for this! Personally, I do hear a difference, but I find it so small that I’m not sure if it’s worth the trouble of upgrading.
mikesucho
August 25, 2012 @ 9:16 pm
Why are some caps wired between the tone and volume? What is the difference?
John
August 30, 2012 @ 3:08 pm
Swapping the series order of a cap and resistor is electrically equivalent. So, sometimes you see volume pot -> tone pot -> cap -> ground. And other times you see volume pot -> cap -> tone pot -> ground.
Zawiedek
September 18, 2012 @ 2:06 pm
The series of videos is well done. I did start hearing differences once it was listening into the the mids. But the differences are not the kind of difference where you would listen to some guy playing onstage and think: “Wow, his mallory cap sounds so groovy tonight”. 🙂 BTW, I would have favoured the yellow cylinder probably because of the slightly scooped mids and therefore great clarity with chords.
samo bolo
September 30, 2012 @ 10:59 am
John,
I’ve noticed elsewhere on the web some schematics have fasel or homemade inductors into the ground end of the varitone circuit.
Any thoughts or experience on the matter?
Also, when you wired your varitone, it seems obvious but the tone caps wired directly on the pots would be omitted because of the multi-capacitor knob just assembled, correct?
Thanks for the videos as well.
John Cooper
October 2, 2012 @ 4:21 pm
My tone-thing wasn’t a typical varitone- it was just a piece of cardboard to hold a bunch of caps in place with me manually switching between them using alligator leads. Yes the original tone circuit was bypassed.
An inductor in series with a signal will act as a low-pass filter blocking fast-moving signals and passing slow moving signals (which is the opposite of capacitors). A varitone circuit with both caps and inductors will allow a selection of various low-pass and high-pass filters.
ednja
October 3, 2012 @ 1:57 am
I’ve decided to go with the electrolytics!
John Cooper
October 4, 2012 @ 10:33 am
Hahah! good luck with that 🙂
For those not in on the joke, electrolytics are polarized, high-capacitance (generally > 1uF) caps, so not appropriate for guitar tone circuits.
Crazy Tone Thing -
October 11, 2012 @ 2:29 pm
[…] See part 3 for a bunch of followup Q&A and some more audio examples. […]
badagon
November 4, 2012 @ 1:37 am
vintage yellow sounds very nice and musical
stratcatavarious
December 2, 2012 @ 2:33 pm
Are those volumes and tones BOTH 500K pots ?
Or just the tones ?
John
December 4, 2012 @ 1:03 pm
These were both 500k audio taper pots.
pandamarxx
December 6, 2012 @ 12:58 pm
Sounds like some tone weenies got a hold of your video and picked it apart.
The Idiots could not understand the “try it yourself”advice you gave in the conclusion.
Yet they try to prove that they are smart? Must be members of Mensa.
I think it worked out Great and I tried it. I ended up finding better caps for my Teles. Thanks!!!
pandamarxx
December 6, 2012 @ 1:26 pm
I Applaud You! for trying to make everyone happy.
What about Ceramics? Sheesh!!!! Thanks for you efforts!
Orion Trotter
December 21, 2012 @ 7:37 pm
It would’ve been perfect if you measured the caps first. Right now I think the drift was the only difference I heard.
John
December 23, 2012 @ 6:18 pm
I measured the caps in part 3. See here: watch?v=S7Hod21pIUI#t=2m29s
mmetott
January 20, 2013 @ 9:19 am
Very thorough and helpful (the whole series)
savant disgrace
January 25, 2013 @ 10:43 am
You are a great big help John! Many thanks! Watched all 4 video’s.
Michael Lafayette
May 25, 2013 @ 5:38 pm
now I got a finger print on my screen
savant disgrace
May 26, 2013 @ 9:11 am
Dude, unintentionally you gave me a huge shock. I remember posting that comment like a month ago. To see it was 4 months ago O: where does time go..
SweetSpotGuitar
February 13, 2013 @ 12:37 pm
Great stuff, like so many have said. OK, a followup question about values. What about Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR)? Differences there could make a real difference in sound, as you’ve got a different filter circuit (once you add all the parasitics like ESR, any inductances inherent in parts, etc.). ‘Mojo’ does not have a sound–only electrical components do, so if there’s any difference in sound, it should be quantifiable. 😉 Love your scientific and level-headed approach here.
John
February 19, 2013 @ 1:22 pm
If I understand correctly, ESR on these small capacitance values is so low as to be almost unmeasurable (like thousandths of an ohm). I had just assumed it wasn’t worth measuring, but you’re right that if one of these old vintage caps had some ESR way off the charts, then it could be audibly affecting the filter parameters. But that would probably indicate a defective cap more than anything…
John
February 19, 2013 @ 1:22 pm
If I understand correctly, ESR on these small capacitance values is so low as to be almost unmeasurable (like thousandths of an ohm). I had just assumed it wasn’t worth measuring, but you’re right that if one of these old vintage caps had some ESR way off the charts, then it could be audibly affecting the filter parameters. But that would probably indicate a defective cap more than anything…
Jay Suschrist
February 27, 2013 @ 9:03 am
Your videos are great, my man. “Keep it simple, stupid”, that’s always the best philosophy.
ktuluworld
March 22, 2013 @ 7:53 am
Really good video, I have been very useful.
I have a question, I ordered two Russian Cap K40Y-9 of 0.022uF, their values at the multimeter are 19.94uF and 19.40uF, a little lower than the real 22uF, Is this normal?
John
March 22, 2013 @ 8:49 am
Those are about 10 or 11% off, which is within typical cap value tolerance. Caps are typically rated between 5% and 20%. Check the datasheet or with your vendor for the tolerance rating for the caps you purchased.
Malach211
April 3, 2013 @ 7:38 pm
Then all the processing is sent through the nasa shuttle mains and boosted thru the trans gigaverse multi wave triax multiplexer to the fbi mainframe uncompressed compressor haaaa damn I need tech schooling to get all of this
mbj335
June 9, 2013 @ 10:20 am
Very well done! very helpful thank you!
Greetings from France
clugokillscluco
August 17, 2013 @ 12:36 pm
Awesome series! I learned so much, finally someone who explains whar the caps are doing. Do capacitors do the same thing to an amplifiers tone? Could I use tue same logic to mod my amp?
John
August 20, 2013 @ 11:57 am
Yes, you’ll find caps being used similarly in any typical amp’s analog circuitry. Capacitors are also used in other situations, and some (especially in amps) can hold a huge charge, effectively acting like a high voltage battery. Please be very careful modding your amp- make sure you really know what you’re doing, and work safely, or you can kill yourself, or the amp, or both…
zemsguitar
August 29, 2013 @ 8:44 pm
…mmm… have you considered to use a LOOPER?… that could free your both hands to make sweeps while sounding… just saying.
Cheers!
John
August 30, 2013 @ 9:42 am
Yeah— this was after I had sold my Echoplex digital pro, but before I had got my Jamman Delay.
AttyBri
October 12, 2013 @ 8:06 pm
Excellent videos on capacitors and potentiometers. You answered all my questions and saved me a ton of money ( well a little bit of money ). Anyway, thank you.
Avimessica
October 17, 2013 @ 8:18 am
Your videos are highly professional as well as educational. Well done.
Glenn Smith
October 18, 2013 @ 4:36 pm
Thank you for your informative video’s!
Glenn Smith
November 5, 2013 @ 2:05 pm
Differences in them so small,to my ears the Epi originals sound fine,no way you could tell a difference playing in a band with the other instruments,IMHO!
Cristian Andaur
November 24, 2013 @ 9:10 am
the point here its that with a little seconds bumping the capacitors its
dificult to know what they really can do. Off course that they sound
similar, but its in the extreme playing where In my expierience PIO caps
deliver multicolor magic, specilally in high gains, Polipropilene its more
plane and colorless, ideal for metal, but not for rock. Another point here
too, its use a tube amp, in transistor amps the color of the PIO condenser
will be darkened. So..the magic comes with PIO+Tube+Gain. Another point its
that the PIO condenser, like all vintage electronics, need an adjust run
time….some miles before all inside settle at 100%. In poli the settle its
instantaneous, and never get better with time.
vitovitale
December 16, 2013 @ 4:27 pm
you are using modelling.. it seems..any test with analog to digital
conversion and back..in my opinion invalidates any tests.. that’s just my
personal opinion.
Chickenbone Genome
January 1, 2014 @ 10:51 pm
So, um…when you put it all back together, which parts did you finally
decide to use?
phuck ewe
January 7, 2014 @ 1:04 pm
“These go to 11.”
First, let me say, I happened upon your video’s while searching for one on
how to clean the pots in my stereo, and ended up watching 5 of your videos.
I have my own rating system for videos on youtube that goes something like
this:
Scores are either plus or minus. This is your score.
1. video quality +
2. audio quality +
3. cinematography +
4. composition +
5. film editing +
6. presentation +
7. articulation +
8. concise +
9. accurate info +
10. educational/entertainment value +
Typically, the high score can only be 10, however, being that these are so
good, I have rated them one point higher.
“These go to eleven.”
Well done Sir.
Drblooter99
January 16, 2014 @ 11:41 pm
What do you think might be the best value PIO cap for my GIbson SG bass
(with humbuckers)? Thanks
Rick Mantree
January 17, 2014 @ 8:07 am
CAP DIFFERENCES
If a person does not want to be influenced by the name of the cap on the
screen then they could always close their eyes while listening:-) If
listening thru an I-pad then just put a magazine over it while listening.
In addition, you could use a chronometer to note at what point in time you
most liked the sound then, when ready, just compare with the video.
If you want your brain to better analyze what your are hearing, I suggest
that a person does their listening WITHIN three hours of waking up. The
reason being that one’s ears do not hear certain frequencies as they tire
from use during the day.
In addition, in order to better hear the differences between caps, listen
to the recording in a DARKENED room as it allows your ears to better
“analyze” and “concentrate” on the sound. I’ve never seen a professional
recording studio that does otherwise!
Some people are color blind (they literally cannot see certain colors —
it is called daltonism). Perhaps people who can not hear the difference
between caps (with the Tone TURNED down to between 7 and 8; the amplifier
on CLEAN; guitar with SINGLE coils) are “sound blind”. From experience, I
have found that it easier to hear the differences between capacitors with
single coils. This clip uses P-90s which are single coils.
Rick Mantree (luthier, singer, songwriter)
Jason Fryer
February 10, 2014 @ 2:51 pm
Great video John! Thanks for sharing man!
Clint Milburn
March 25, 2014 @ 9:06 pm
Great videos. Very helpful when starting the cap journey. 🙂
Something from NoThing
April 16, 2014 @ 6:14 pm
Good stuff 🙂
JED TAYLOR
July 11, 2014 @ 1:27 pm
I understand that your set ups and play outs are consistent with all the
participants. I missed the fact that the amp was tone set to neutral on
the pots on the amp. of these considerations did I miss the acceptance
that the only changes to true values were those made as each pot went
through the roll off. I am thinking the vox amps are set up with tone
values from l to l0 and not 5 0 5 treble and bass and mid. I missed
the sight of this except that they were not all standing tall or left hand
zero etc. What s the consideration you have towards leaning tone in one
direction to the amp so that its more pronounced if your eqs are set above
or below zero on the amp to start.
JED TAYLOR
July 11, 2014 @ 1:40 pm
The ability of each individual cap to hold frequencies that a person favor
would be the ability to show likes and dislikes of the tone quality. All
of your demonstrations show that frequency values are determined by
dominance in the signal and the ability to last in the signal. This I
believe is the answer you seek in how to value a particular pot. How it
holds and release the multitude of frequency values to the ear
JED TAYLOR
July 11, 2014 @ 1:43 pm
Also a good explanation towards why you hear slight differences, as to
favor one over the others. time of frequency domination in the tone
signal it self. How long it last and how strong it sounds as you strike
single tones and chord tones. smooth and rich, or dull, flat all have a
factor in length and strength of each frequency value in the monitor
frequencies you show on the multi scope
0ZK0R0
July 13, 2014 @ 11:39 pm
Very interesting and informative series. Thanks for taking the time.
cableaddict
October 27, 2014 @ 3:45 pm
Regarding the cap values:
First, those are all close enough that I doubt it’s a “significant” factor,
but it COULD be, especially since one famous double-blind test has found
zero audible difference with matched caps. You say there would be less
difference with the tone pot on ten, because quote “the cutoff frequency is
pretty high.”
– Isn’t that incorrect? AFAIK, when you turn the tone pot, the cutoff
frequency stays the same, you’re just changing the AMOUNT of signal to
ground. No?
Anyway, a new test with carefully-matched caps (and maybe two caps from
each brand would certainly answer some questions.
Well, I have no dog in this fight. Luckily, the PIO caps sound like dung
here, and sound identical in that other test, so there’s no point in
wasting money on THOSE, and orange drops (the clear winner here, I think)
are cheap enough not to worry. Again, big props for this very serious &
detailed effort.
sean johnston
December 13, 2014 @ 5:51 pm
I liked the orange drop and ceramic clean, but I liked the PIO dirty! LOL
now I need to put both in and use a switch!
edneyhelene
May 11, 2015 @ 7:22 pm
Looks like the Pio 22 is the best for my metal 7 strings guitar sound!
Thanks alot! Great job
David Smith
May 23, 2015 @ 1:45 pm
Hi, and excellent thanks, I am delighted there was none of the usual cry’s
of if this was that and that was this, 6+6 would be 15, an incoming thunder
storm or VLF front may have been coming in which made a difference. I did
find it very interesting about distortion and the like and the
characteristic of different amps on the sound? as you say, plug the thing
in see if one likes it and adjust to suit a person preference, very well
done and excellent video, thanks
Lee ster
June 11, 2015 @ 12:19 am
Am I weird or did the ceramic sound pretty good? Great set of videos John.