Relax, Take a Load Off
In this video I demonstrate how to modify a tone pot to be no load, for true bypass. The change in brightness is subtle, but worthwhile. Don’t be afraid to open up your pots and have a look – it’s pretty easy to do. But be forewarned, some pots are easier than others to put back together! These Bourns pots are a bit dodgy, as you can see in the videos. In contrast, the CTS EP086 is very nicely constructed and easy to reassemble (as I showed in How Pots Work: Disassembly and Exploration).
Ben
October 31, 2009 @ 3:48 am
Man, I love your videos. Learned something today,
thanks a lot.
Is it ok if I put your blog on my blogslist?
Cheers
Ben
John
October 31, 2009 @ 9:33 am
Hi Ben,
Thanks for the kind words.
Sure, feel free to link!
-John
Guitar Electronics Comparisons :planet z
December 29, 2009 @ 11:32 pm
[…] new electronics include CTS 500k audio taper pots, no-load mod on the tone pot, an Orange Drop .01uF tone cap, all new shielded wire, and a new Switchraft L12A […]
stratthead
February 7, 2010 @ 1:53 pm
You rock!
daviddec
February 11, 2010 @ 5:18 pm
Hey this is really great, thanks for sharing this great and easy mod. It has really brightened my tone a bit (much needed on my often muddy esp baritone guitar)!
I was wondering though – would this be a good idea to do to a volume pot as well? I have one tone and one vol. pot, and was thinking my pickups might enjoy being fully unleashed!
Keep up the good work, and thanks for your time.
David Dec
John
February 11, 2010 @ 8:49 pm
Hey David,
Glad to hear it worked well with your tone!
This mod wouldn’t work on a volume pot. Cutting or blocking the trace on a tone pot works ok because you’re only using one side of the pot (one side lug and the center lug) as a variable resistor (or rheostat). The other side lug of the pot is rendered useless (open circuit) because of the cut trace. Confirm by using your multimeter between the other lug and center lug- no matter what the pot position, you’ll see infinite resistance (there is no connection!)
A volume pot is wired as a voltage divider, with one side variably connecting to ground, and the other side variably connecting to the output. So it won’t work if the trace is cut.
For more info, take a look at my video on how pots work: https://www.planetz.com/sophie/?p=261
One thing you could do instead is use a push/pull, where when you engage the switch, the volume pot is entirely bypassed. You could experiment with alligator clips to find out whether it’s really worth it 🙂
Hope this helps,
John
daviddec
February 12, 2010 @ 12:05 pm
Hey thanks for the reply. After I posted here I got curious and looked at the volume pot and came upon the conclusion you just gave- on the tone pot we’re using two of the lugs, but on the volume pot the third lug is essential to it’s functioning and cutting through that would prove a bad idea.
But installing a switch would be a way around this, and I may experiment with it.
Thanks again for the big help.
David
erikmilan1987
February 18, 2010 @ 8:05 am
Thats a really easy mod to a pot without buying those Fender no load
pots… i got 3 little questions 1. Why you didnt scrape the carbon exactly
on the spot that the pot stopped but a little more to your left ? 2. Its
this recomendable to do on the volume pots as well ? 3. (off topic) Does a
shielding a guitar with copper tape helps at all with noise if your power
source its not grounded (Most power sources in my country dosent have
ground) Great videos bro !, i subscribed !
John
February 18, 2010 @ 11:04 am
1.Depends at what point on the knob you want it to go no-load. If you look
at the numbers on your knob, you could say you want it to change at 9 or
between 9 and 10, or whatever. If you only scrape at the very end, you may
sometimes not quite engage no-load when you turn it up, if the wiper
doesn’t make it all the way to the end of the track.
Sywrithin
February 24, 2010 @ 7:27 pm
Should this be done to a volume pot too? 😛
John
February 24, 2010 @ 10:52 pm
No, it won’t work. See a few comments down for an explanation.
fishfrizbee
March 23, 2010 @ 5:38 pm
Hey Man How about a Kill Pot Tutorial People Need it
PhuckHue2
April 4, 2010 @ 1:22 am
I use a tone pot bypass switch. I had to drill another hole for the switch
but I didn’t want to risk tearing up a tone pot
mongoose979
May 10, 2010 @ 2:25 pm
you’re a genius . . .
jimmytimmyish
July 1, 2010 @ 8:04 am
Potentiometers
nymetsrock
July 17, 2010 @ 1:07 pm
hi, i performed this mod using a flat head screwdriver as the scraper, and
i soldered it back in, and now when i play no sound comes out. Both of the
potentiometers i installed so i do know how to do it, so I’m wondering why
the sound won’t come through. I’ll go through the electronics and look them
over but would any mistake cause this to happen?
John
July 17, 2010 @ 9:53 pm
@nymetsrock – you’re doing this on your tone pot, not your volume pot,
right? If so, must be a wiring mistake– double check with a multimeter if
you’ve got one. (You can’t do this mod on a volume pot).
nymetsrock
July 18, 2010 @ 2:25 pm
@johnplanetz I used the tone pot, i found what the problem was, thank you
though
AdrS
September 13, 2010 @ 2:44 am
i prefer guitar tone with a proper external load because then the guitar
can be properly balanced. Adding additional capacitors 100pf – 2nF between
ground and signal is very nice, because often overall capacitive load (low
capacitance cables, some amps) is insufficient, leaving your resonnant
frequency up in bats echolocation range. Then your guitar sounds thin with
normal treble, and muddy with low treble. Adding permanent capacitive load
moves resonnant pick downwards for warmer, deep sound.
AdrS
September 13, 2010 @ 2:56 am
for adjusting the proper resistive load I use a pot 1 or 2Mohm from signal
to ground like tone pot, but without capacitor. Then I adjust it with flat
eq on my amp, to sound fat, and move treble around on my amp to see if it’s
useful – maxed treble cannot sound ice picky and painful for ears, but
usable. After proper adjustements i detach this pot and measure its
resistance. -> then add proper overall resistance using pots and fixed
resistors. This way You can make your guitar sing your own way.
John
September 14, 2010 @ 2:36 pm
@mjerf – adding a switch to bypass a volume pot will reduce the load on the
pickup and brighten up the sound a bit. If you don’t use your volume knob
much, it might be worthwhile. You can see/hear in my video “Epiphone P-90
Pickup Experiment”, it defintely brightens up the sound to connect the
pickup directly to the jack.
francoprs
September 24, 2010 @ 12:11 pm
Thanks to you for a really informative video.
Fo Bu
October 20, 2010 @ 11:03 pm
Hey pal thanks for the vids, I need some of your advice, i installed new
noiseless pickups, i used the strat stock pots 250k. recently i changed
them to 500k for volume and tone. now im getting a grounding hum… i
switched back to the 250ks and now im still getting the hum… any help?
does the quality of wire that i use have anything to do with the hum?
thanks bud
muaythai4lifelife
November 15, 2010 @ 3:34 am
what did you say at 0:23 ? -this is something you “can” or “can’t” do with
a no load potentometer- thanx!
muaythai4lifelife
November 15, 2010 @ 3:36 am
where can i found a ready to install no load tone reverse log type?
muaythai4lifelife
November 16, 2010 @ 1:15 pm
Thanx for everything 🙂
guitarnub3
November 20, 2010 @ 5:08 pm
can i bypass my tone control using a dpdt switch? and if so can you send me
a diagram?
John
March 2, 2011 @ 10:03 am
@97warlock – the 1meg pot will load the pickups less, resulting in a
slightly brighter sound. the taper will also feel a bit different when
turning the knob. hard to quantify exactly, as it really depends on the
pickups and the rest of the circuit. I’d say noticeable, but not extremely
different. i suggest you buy some pots for a few bucks, and use alligator
clip leads to do the experiment for yourself.
Subspace2003
June 19, 2011 @ 9:17 am
It is nice idea but using high quality paper oil insulator capacitor is
better way for the sound. This Epiphene 0.022 cheap cap’s insulator is
mylar film.
Edwinthe7th
July 26, 2011 @ 1:12 pm
I’ve heard that you can do the same thing just by aplying a little finger
nail polish to that same spot. Is that true?
John
July 26, 2011 @ 1:23 pm
@Edwinthe7th – yes, that’ll work.
hotgluefingerboard11
August 1, 2011 @ 6:32 pm
Dude, I freaking love your videos. Did you go to school for this? Were you someone’s apprentice? I would love to know how to obtain this much information
John
August 2, 2011 @ 9:43 am
@hotgluefingerboard11 – nothing formal- just lots of experimentation, reading, exploring. i have some tips and book recommendations at the FAQ at my blog at planetz, if you’re interested.
hotgluefingerboard11
August 2, 2011 @ 12:29 pm
@johnplanetz I will definitely check it out. Thanks again man
wedel219
September 29, 2011 @ 11:41 am
Hey, John. I saw on GPR that they sell no load pots. Would you recommend buying a pot made to be no load already, or to just do the mod to a regular pot?
John
September 29, 2011 @ 11:45 am
@wedel219 – If you already have a pot, then the mod is easy enough to do. But if you need to buy a pot anyway, and you want it no-load, then fender and CTS make them, available as you saw at Guitar Parts Resource, as well as at AllParts, GuitarElectronics, etc
SamwiseGUITAR
October 6, 2011 @ 9:14 pm
Hi John,
This is great! What exactly does this do to the sound? Can I use this for both volume and tone pots? Thanks so much!
All The Best,
Sam
John
October 9, 2011 @ 8:51 pm
@SamwiseGUITAR – it removes the tone cap load to ground, which can brighten up the sound a bit. You can hear the subtle difference in the before/after in the video. You cannot use this mod with a volume pot, since that’s wired as a voltage divider and needs both sides of the pot.
DaMusicMan203
November 10, 2011 @ 8:28 am
hey man i have a question, if i just take the tone pots off completely, will that make it bypass?
John
November 10, 2011 @ 10:18 am
@DaMusicMan203 – yes.
KIDWICKED369
November 22, 2011 @ 2:24 pm
can you do this with a bypass switch? if so could you give an idea of how to wire that?
John
November 22, 2011 @ 2:30 pm
@KIDWICKED369 – just add a SPST switch between the cap and ground, or you could use a push/pull pot. When the switch is open, the cap will be disconnected from ground. With the switch closed, the cap will be connected (via the pot) to ground. You can check my blog at planetz on 2/16/11 for a tutorial on push/pull pots.
97warlock
November 28, 2011 @ 6:57 am
Can some1 answer this question plz:Im installing a 1 meg vol pot,4 wire Bucker …I bought 26awg single shielded wire.A single shielded wire has the Inner wire,AND the shielding which will be GROUND.thats 2 wires.I want to instal them to my Output jack one Hot,One ground …yet each has a center & a ground thats 4 wires total for just 2 lugs on output jack …HOW do I do this correctly? Anyone?
RocknLester2011
December 5, 2011 @ 5:58 pm
John, this is really cool stuff here! Ive been tinkering with different values on pots all the way upto 2 megs taken from an oldGibson tube amp, I never knew it was possible to do this mod! Thank you for taking the time to show us this!
I4L3XXI
December 8, 2011 @ 3:23 pm
Yo, great video, i have a question, i have recently installed new di marzio pickups to my guitar, and i am getting noise coming from the bridge pickup when the one ps up full, and the noise stays there even if i touch the strings which i think rules out a grounding issue, any ideas? thanks dude!
TonyFeral
December 24, 2011 @ 2:59 pm
can i do something like this with a volume pot.
John
December 26, 2011 @ 10:32 am
@TonyFeral – no. this won’t work with a volume pot, since a volume control is wired as a voltage divider and needs both sides of the pot.
anonymityrocks
December 28, 2011 @ 9:45 pm
Great vid. I wish more “how to” vids on youtube were as articulate as yours. Thanks
cameronscorner1
January 3, 2012 @ 2:00 pm
your videos are fantastic. thanks for sharing your knowledge. Question, if I install a blender and don’t use a “No Load” pot, what kind of results can i expect? also, I already have a toggle switch that i had used to “turn on” the Neck pup. Was thinking about going with master tone control and blender, then use the toggle switch (or swap for push button) to bypass tone if desired… does this sound stupid? thanks again
ChronoGXay
January 3, 2012 @ 2:34 pm
I’m looking to build a combination low-pass/high-pass filter to install on my guitar using a concentric potentiometer. Would I be able to get the exact same effect with the modification you use?
fesaco182
January 10, 2012 @ 5:43 pm
what about if I get a pot with a very high resistance value? should it be enough? what value would you consider enough?
John
January 11, 2012 @ 8:50 am
@fesaco182 – you could try a 1 Meg ohm audio taper pot.
AshtonPhoto
February 24, 2012 @ 5:34 pm
Really cool.
No pretentious graphics and so on, just good advice.
Thanks for posting.
PwnEdgE1
March 3, 2012 @ 6:16 am
Very cool ,funny how I keep finding you from Idea’s I am doing .Great video’s.Thanks
oninzshoko
March 21, 2012 @ 8:09 pm
can i start it the end? like in the lowest value like in reverse of what you did? im planning to do that at the zero level of my tone pot..is that possible?
Bill
March 22, 2012 @ 2:07 pm
If you cut it there you will effectively cut the entire circuit and the tone pot will not work at all.
John
March 25, 2012 @ 10:45 pm
@oninzshoko – No, cutting the trace on that end would essentially create a permanent open-circuit.
SIRONEDRAGON
March 29, 2012 @ 7:09 pm
great job John : )
junkie654
April 13, 2012 @ 5:36 pm
does wire gauge going to the output jack change tone or signal strength.
John
April 19, 2012 @ 12:13 pm
With the wire lengths encountered in a guitar, it shouldn’t have any effect. I generally use 22 gauge stranded unshielded cable, or 26 gauge stranded shielded wire for the longer runs.
junkie654
April 19, 2012 @ 12:44 pm
Great thanks for the reply. Thanks for the vids
utubehound69
May 20, 2012 @ 12:58 pm
What would be the best pot for a LONG Taper for Vol. swells , w/humbuckers Thx for the Vid
John
May 24, 2012 @ 5:22 pm
probably audio-taper. see the other vids in my channel for taper comparisons.
MrBillsmith568
June 23, 2012 @ 6:06 pm
I dont exactly have a college degree in electronics, but, if something has infinite resistance, wouldn’t that mean it doesn’t pass ANY signal?
John
June 24, 2012 @ 9:37 pm
Yes, you’ve got it. For the tone pot, the guitar signal is passing through this variable resistor, through a capacitor (which passes high frequencies), to ground, where the those high frequencies are lost. By not allowing any signal to pass here, you get the brightest possible signal, with no high-frequency loss through the tone cap. For more explanation of a tone circuit, see my video “Guitar Tone Capacitors, part 2: How Tone Works, Selecting a Value” watch?v=rR4maqK_IhQ
julianrodolfo
August 7, 2012 @ 2:56 pm
it sound the same to me.
sam bowman
August 13, 2012 @ 5:48 am
can you do the same for a stacked pot so you have one of the pots on the stack with no load tone control and the other as normal ?
Sebasstian86
October 9, 2012 @ 10:06 am
Hey John, this mod sounds very interesting, however, I don’t understand how there is still any signal going to the capacitor? If you cut the track, how is there still any signal flowing between the lugs when you go beyond the cut? I thought the outer lugs are connected to the wiper with the track…
Sebasstian86
October 9, 2012 @ 10:42 am
Upon review, I get it. You’re cutting the trace on the lug that is not connected,..electronics keep confusing me…
John Cooper
October 9, 2012 @ 4:09 pm
Right. So when the wiper is along the track before the cut, it’s making a connection between the center lug and side lug. But when the wiper reaches all the way around past the cut, there’s no connection (infinite resistance).
skoczy
January 3, 2013 @ 6:32 am
Infinite resistance is when there is no connection between two lugs? And in this case it works lets say 100% resistance, 90%, ….50% …20%… 3% and then when you cross the broken connection there is infinite resistance? So when you roll down the treble all the way down you have 100% treble going with the signal? Am I right?
John
January 6, 2013 @ 9:28 pm
Close- but backwards. Let me restate your example: when the tone is turned all the way down, you have 0 resistance = full treble cut shunted to ground through the cap. Then as you turn the knob up, you increase 3%…20%…50%…99% (progressively less treble cut) until you pass the broken trace, open circuit, infinite resistance, and NO signal shunted to ground through the capacitor, so no treble cut.
Chrisincranberry
October 23, 2012 @ 7:10 pm
Wow! What a useful video … my sincere gratitude, Dude! 🙂
Dan Benkert
November 24, 2012 @ 6:40 am
Great video I have a Volume POT that doesnt stop it gets to that points and tries to stop but keeps going instead of replacing the POT because its mounting to a JE1200 Boosting circuit Im going to try messing with the dimple on the Pot casing first. Thanks so much Im sure this is all it is.
John
November 29, 2012 @ 1:12 pm
cool- hope that works! if not, it should still be fairly easy to replace- pcb-mount pots are readily available.
BertieBacon
November 30, 2012 @ 9:15 pm
If I’m using a push pull pot for the tone knob + for coil splitting, will doing this no load mod effect that in any way?
John
December 4, 2012 @ 12:58 pm
Should be fine. The switch in a push/pull is totally independent from the pot.
pandamarxx
December 10, 2012 @ 8:04 am
Is it that simple? Great Thanks!!!!
skoczy
January 3, 2013 @ 6:28 am
Love these videos!
jfreedner
February 3, 2013 @ 9:12 am
Excellent video. Very clearly explained and demonstrated. I’m an electrical engineering student and a (very) amateur guitarist. As such, I spend more time than I ought to tinkering with the wiring on the assorted cheap strat copies that I’ve accumulated. It’s great to see someone else with a firm grasp of these concepts take the time to make such informative and useful videos.
john walkerdine
February 18, 2013 @ 5:48 pm
nice on again john. never thought of that on. but it worked . was more toppy. thanks.
FahimMotoGP
June 29, 2013 @ 1:52 am
hi is that a 24mm pot-
John
July 11, 2013 @ 8:36 am
yes, this is a standard 24mm pot
mstag
October 15, 2013 @ 11:51 am
To make sure the back goes back on correctly – mark the back and top with a line from a Sharpie pen so you will know exactly how to position the parts when you reassemble.
rosewood mahogany
November 19, 2013 @ 11:43 pm
Thank you VERY MUCH for making this. Second I have a request. I’ve read
(from many people) that a no load volume pot *isn’t* impossible, but just
difficult.
(And that there are *many* ways to do it.)
However, it’s never explained in a simple way.
If you could figure it out, & make a video, that’d be awesome.
soulrebelno1
January 12, 2014 @ 4:29 am
Great tutorial and an excellent video, thanks for taking the time out to
make it.
Phil James
June 22, 2014 @ 9:53 am
Great tip John, thanks. Just a suggestion …. while the switch is
dismantled, may be worth coating the inner workings with some electrical
grease. Could extend the life of the switch considerably?
Mike Chen
October 5, 2014 @ 8:01 am
Actually, there’s No load pot available so you don’t need to open a pot and
do these work… https://www.bourns.com/data/global/pdfs/PDB241-GNL.pdf
Marc Brewster
November 25, 2014 @ 6:30 am
You always have such great vids John…But I have to ask you. Wouldn’t it
be easier for you to build a partscaster so you dont have to keep pulling
the electronics from the sound hole? It just seems like you go through alot
of work for the demos. Either way I have learned a ton from you and you
have really helped me out with important information when putting together
components for my builds. Awesome job John!
John Cooper
November 25, 2014 @ 6:41 am
@Marc Brewster- yeah, a partscaster would have been easier, but this guitar
was my project at the time. I actually had the guts hanging out the f-hole
for quite a long time, so there wasn’t so much uninstall/re-install.
Gordon Tubbs
February 27, 2015 @ 9:24 am
I have a Squier that I hot-rodded in this regard. All it has now is a
Seymour Duncan TB-6, a volume pot, and a push-button killswitch (for Rage
Against The Machine type stuff). I know many players swear by “proper”
usage of tone and volume pots, but a vast majority of guitarists have at
least one set of pickups that we like full up all the time. If that’s the
case, a mod like this can be really useful if you want to emphasize the
tones from your pickups.